On Sicily’s western coast, seawater moves through shallow ponds. Sun and wind concentrate it until salt crystallizes. The white piles mark the harvest.
Trapani, SicilySea · sun · wind · timeThe pink birds of the salt pans
The name
the pink birds were already here.
The shallow, salty ponds support algae, brine shrimp and other tiny aquatic life. Flamingos filter-feed here, and pigments in that diet tint their feathers pink. The same living landscape that makes the salt gave Pink Bird its name.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with cooking salt. Cook the spaghetti until just shy of al dente. Reserve a mug of pasta water before draining.
Heat 1 tbsp oil in a small pan over medium heat. Carefully add the dry capers and fry until crisp, about 3–4 minutes. Lift onto a paper towel.
In a wide pan, warm the remaining oil with the lemon zest. Add the pasta, lemon juice and a splash of pasta water. Toss until glossy.
Take off the heat. Add Parmesan gradually, tossing with more pasta water as needed. Taste before adding more salt; capers and Parmesan already bring plenty. Finish with capers and pepper.
Finishing salt
Tomatoes with whipped ricotta
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Serves 4 as a starter
Ingredients
250 g whole-milk ricotta
500 g ripe tomatoes
3 tbsp olive oil, divided
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
Fresh basil
Flaky finishing salt and black pepper
Method
Whip ricotta with 1 tbsp olive oil and lemon zest until smooth, using a whisk or food processor.
Cut tomatoes into wedges and thick slices. Spread the ricotta over a serving plate, then arrange the tomatoes on top.
Spoon over the remaining olive oil. Add torn basil, black pepper and a small pinch of finishing salt just before serving. Taste and adjust.
Cooking + finishing salt
Salted brown-butter cookies
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Makes about 16 cookies
Ingredients
170 g unsalted butter
150 g light brown sugar
75 g granulated sugar
1 large egg plus 1 egg yolk
2 tsp vanilla extract
225 g all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
3 g fine cooking salt
170 g chopped dark chocolate
Flaky finishing salt
Method
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir as it foams, then remove from the heat when the milk solids turn amber and smell nutty. Transfer to a heatproof bowl. Cool until warm, then add enough water to bring the butter back to 170 g.
Whisk in both sugars, then the egg, yolk and vanilla. Mix the flour, baking soda and cooking salt separately, then fold into the butter mixture. Fold in the chocolate.
Cover and chill for at least 2 hours. Heat the oven to 175°C / 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment.
Divide into 16 portions and space well apart. Bake one tray at a time for 11–14 minutes, until the edges are golden and the centers still soft. Add a few flakes of finishing salt and cool on the tray for 10 minutes.
Cooking + finishing salt
Crispy rosemary potatoes
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Serves 4
Ingredients
750 g small potatoes
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp chopped rosemary
Fine cooking salt
Flaky finishing salt and black pepper
Method
Heat the oven to 220°C / 425°F. Cover potatoes with cold water in a saucepan, season with cooking salt, and simmer until tender, about 15–20 minutes.
Drain and let steam dry for 5 minutes. Place on an oiled baking sheet and gently flatten with the base of a glass.
Brush with olive oil and add rosemary and pepper. Roast for 35–45 minutes, turning once, until deeply golden and crisp.
Taste, then add a small pinch of finishing salt just before serving.
Cooking salt
White beans with lemon and herbs
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Serves 2–3
Ingredients
2 cans (400 g each) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely sliced
100 ml water
1 lemon, zest and 1 tbsp juice
2 tbsp chopped parsley
Fine cooking salt and black pepper
Method
Warm the oil and garlic in a saucepan over medium-low heat for 1–2 minutes, without browning.
Add the beans and water. Simmer gently for 8–10 minutes, crushing a spoonful of beans to thicken the liquid.
Stir in the lemon zest, juice and parsley. Taste, then season with cooking salt and pepper. Serve warm with bread.
Cooking + finishing salt
Roasted carrots with yogurt
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Serves 4
Ingredients
600 g carrots, scrubbed and halved lengthwise if thick
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
200 g plain Greek yogurt
1 tbsp lemon juice
Fresh dill
Fine cooking salt, flaky finishing salt and black pepper
Method
Heat the oven to 220°C / 425°F. Toss carrots with olive oil, cumin, a little cooking salt and pepper. Spread on a baking sheet.
Roast for 25–35 minutes, turning once, until tender and browned at the edges.
Stir the lemon juice into the yogurt and spread over a serving plate. Add the warm carrots and dill. Finish with a few flakes of salt to taste.
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